We are a "Prequalified Contractor" under the "Prequalification Scheme of the NSW Government".

The Scheme has been established to provide a framework that enables agencies to identify and engage suitable contractors for general construction work valued up to $1Million Dollars.

Sample work on Heritage Sandstone cleaning

Sample work on Heritage Paint Removal

Blue Vac Captive Washing on Heritage Building (1840).
See history...
The inside was covered with grease from the kitchen cooking residue.
We used the BlueVac and Heritage No1

83 George Street, The Rocks			The back entrance to basement
Grease and dirt on the walls			All to be cleaned
After clean			Some Heritage No1 applied
Heritage No1			Staircase all cleaned
Finished Clean			Finished Railing

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Australian Sydney Hystory of the Rocks see more...

FREE TO ATTEND, Free parking, Free to listen to speakers, Opportunity to network and talk to us.

Connecting with industry members; Aussie Painters is supporting the industry with quality, innovative training and product awareness.

Let's Clean will be having a workshop, where you will be able to try the paint removal products like Heritage No1, Wonder Strip, 600GL (SOY·Gel), Infra Strip and many more. Feel free to ask for an advice and will be happy to provide a solution for you.

The Trade Expo has been organized to bring all the paint manufacturers' and all industry suppliers together for one day event.

Speakers throughout the day informing you of some of the latest things happening in the Painting Industry as well as the Construction Industry.

See you all there...

Map:

Reference Links:

Paint Expo

Aussie Painters Network

Another Job completed by the team.

Sun Rise View From the Tower			Team ready to go. See how nice and clean!
Before the paint removal			After 600GL part of Lead Paint Removed
Applying Heritage No1			Applying Heritage No1
Sunset at Byron Bay from Lighthouse

Let’s Clean used our own products 600GL (SoyGel) and Heritage No1  paint removerr on all surfaces at Cape Byron Bay Lighthouse and Coffs Harbour South Solitary Island Lighthouse.

On the steel ceiling of the top floor and on the central steel shaft enclosure (after it was stripped), we used our specialised JOS System, a light abrasive cleaning system, to protect the heritage of the lighthouse. Lead paint was removed by Let’s Clean, with any residues further removed by our Blue Vac System and collected into drums and buckets. All lead-contaminated water was collected into water tanks and disposed of by a hazardous waste collection company.

"Whitewash" is water-soluble and much easier to remove than "Limewash".

Whitewash

Limewash

Removing "Limewash", however, is not so straightforward. If we have acrylic paint on "Limewash" we recommend ether "Wonder Strip" or "600GL (SoyGel)" - we have samples of each available to conduct some trials .

"Limewash" is tricky to take off. It can be tried with hot water or "Hot water pressure cleaners". If the "Limewash" is very old it becomes in part or completely like glass. It is a protection after all and maybe best left on the substrate. However if it is not like carbonated (glass), paint stripper could take the Lime Wash off as well, depending on age and type.

Another solution to take "Limewash" off is with our JOS System, it can be used to clean up any leftover "Limewash" from the surface. The JOS System is a light abrasive, micro-cleaning equipment, a chemical-free system used for the cleaning of facades, removal of graffiti, brick cleaning without damage to joints or the surface being cleaned. It will remove matter off metal, concrete, brick, timber, marble, terracotta and limestone.

There is no guaranties on any of the procedures above and we would rely on tests to give you an accurate quote or process.

"Virtually any coating can be removed from virtually any surface.... Notable exceptions are "Limewash" and cement based paints (e.g."Snowcem"). "Limewash" (not to be confused with "Whitewash") is, once cured, a thin layer of Limestone. Like cement mortars, it can be very slowly dissolved with an acidic cleaner but the process is extremely time-consuming, as the acidic cleaner product has to be continually re-applied. Removal is therefore only practicable if the "Limewash" is very thin. There is no straightforward solution, as any form of air-abrasive (blasting) or mechanical system will be destructive to the substrate - not the same as JOS.

On brickwork, try a Hydrochloric Acid Cleaner, also known as Strong Water or Muriatic Acid, (available from Bunnings) liberally applied, brushed over every two or three minutes and pressure-washed off every fifteen minutes. This is a highly corrosive product and should be used with extreme caution, otherwise it may damage your skin or the objects of your surroundings. Wet the surface thoroughly before you start, to minimize the penetration of the product into the brickwork. If you use the pressure washer to do this, it will blow off any loose areas of "Limewash" at the same time. We also recommend to use our JOS System to clean up any leftover "Limewash" from the surface.

Instructions for Hydrochloric Acid Cleaner

1. The first thing you should consider is that hydrochloric acid is a product that must be handled with extreme caution and always using adequate protection to prevent accidents and injuries to our skin. So when using it you should wear:

• Long-sleeved shirt and trousers that cover your arms and legs

• Closed shoes • Rubber gloves, a must for handling

• Goggles to protect your eyes from any drops or splashes

Also if there is vegetation in the area you plan to clean, it is desirable that you change location or adequately cover the plants or grass, as this product may be toxic to plants.

2. Muriatic acid is commonly used to clean surfaces such as brick or concrete. In both cases, you can use the same process. First cover your skin with appropriate clothing, protect your hands with gloves and eyes with goggles. In a bucket mix one part muriatic acid, or hydrochloric acid with 10 parts water. Do not add any other product as you could cause a dangerous chemical reaction.

3. Dampen the surface of the brick or concrete you want to clean with muriatic acid and then, taking care not to splash, pour the contents of the bucket on to the surface. Leave it on the surface for 10 minutes.

4. After this time you can rub the surface with a stiff brush to remove dirt stuck in the brick or concrete. Then rinse with plenty of water for at least 2 minutes to make sure you've that the area is completely free of muriatic acid.

5. It is also possible to clean ceramics tiles and joints with muriatic acid , especially in places like the bathroom which accumulate lots of lime. To do this follow the steps above, mixing 1 part product to 10 parts water. Use proper protection, leave to stand for 5 minutes and then rub with a hard brush. Then, rinse the surface with an abundance of water and carefully remove your gloves.

Always take great caution when handling hydrochloric acid, as it is a powerful acid that can damage your skin.

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How you will use your boat, and how often it is in the water, will determine whether and which of these additional coatings can or must be applied to your boat. We will explain the workings of each additional coating and when you might want to apply them.

After the gel coat, the next coating that could be applied would be a barrier coat. Barrier coats are not applied to a new boat during or immediately after the manufacturing process. They are only decided on for use after a restoration of the bottom of a boat. The primary purpose of a barrier coat is to add additional water barrier protection to the gel coating and fiberglass hull.

Over time, the gel coat and fiberglass hull will absorb water. This absorption can create cracks and water blisters in the coating, and in the worst cases in the hull itself, if not properly maintained. The barrier coat is applied 3-4 times to help further protect a previously damaged gel coat or fiberglass hull. Barrier coats are two part epoxy based systems and are sometimes used as a primer coating (a single layer) for any boat restoration job, regardless of the integrity of the gel coat or fiberglass hull.

Photo shows blistering and cracking of the gel coat and outer layers of paint.

Whether you are putting your boat in the fresh water or in sea water, next you will have to decide if the boat will require a coating of anti-fouling paint. The purpose of the anti-fouling paint is to help keep the marine animal and plant life from attaching itself to the bottom of the boat. When marine life attaches itself, it can slow the boat down considerably, add additional weight and ultimately even damage the boat. Plus it can just be a real bear of a job to clean these organisms off the boat. An anti-fouling paint is a single component coating (a single component, so no mixing by the user). It has metals (currently copper) and biocides added, and these are what discourage marine life.

Photo shows the colouration of the original gel coat and the barrier coat applied over the gel coat.

Over time, additional layers of anti-fouling paints can be added to the boat, usually each year, like putting new shingles on your roof over the existing shingles. This allows a boat owner to clean the boat surface and if in good condition, just add a new anti-fouling layer to keep the marine life at bay. Sometimes boat owners can get away with 3-6 layers total. But at some point, the additional coatings will add too much weight to the boat and must be removed in order to start with a fresh single layer.

Lastly, before the application of the barrier coat or before the anti-fouling paint, primers can be applied to help the bonding process of the primary coatings. Great care must be taken when preparing, mixing and applying gel coats, barrier coats, and anti-fouling paints, and when not done properly they can break down faster than expected, causing unforeseen problems. These primer coats can help in the process when restorers want to take extra precautions doing their own restorations.

As you can see, there are many coatings that can be applied, depending on how you use your boat. And when it comes time to do your restoration job, keep in mind that Let’s Clean Blue Bear 670AF (Soy-Strip) is a great product for removing anti-fouling paints and even barrier coats.

When used properly, Blue Bear 670AF (Soy-Strip) is designed to remove multiple layers of anti-fouling paint and possibly barrier coatings if needed, but not damage or remove the gel coat. As described above, a gel coat is an incredibly tough poly resin, the barrier coat is a semi-tough two part epoxy and the antifouling paint is a simple single component coating. So as the Blue Bear 670AF (Soy-Strip) begins to remove the coatings, it can easily remove the anti-fouling paints. In most cases, this takes between 4 to 10 hours. Then, if needed and not rinsed off, it begins to work on the barrier coat. Under the barrier coat is, of course, the gel coat, which is very tough. It would take a very long time, generally 18 hours or more, for Blue Bear 670AF (Soy-Strip) to even begin to affect a gel coat. That is far too long to leave Blue Bear 670AF (Soy-Strip) on.

It is no secret that doing restoration work on the bottom of a boat is very hard work, and it is easy and tempting to take short cuts to hurry the process. Taking the time to get correct information, and to use the right products and application methods, can save you a lot of heartache and worry, plus keep you and your boat sailing happily in the water!

Common layers of coatings for older and some newer boats.

Investigation and repair of significant building fabric
9–13 May 2016

Let's Clean (Walter Heim) will be present to demonstrate the desalination tool, infrared paint stripper and the latest news of Let's Clean developments and techniques.

The seventh ‘Longford Academy’ (LA7) is a short program in the conservation of traditional
structures and fabric at Woolmers and Brickendon Estates, Longford, Tasmania (World Heritage
inscribed).

Activities
Activities include inspections, workshops, demonstrations and direct involvement in conservation
works across both sites. More information at http://aptaustralasia.wordpress.com

- making and applying lime mortars, repointing, and rough cast plastering*
- making and applying traditional coatings on wood, masonry and plasters
- repairing and re-painting traditional timber-framed windows
- reconstructing and shingling small wooden structure
- conserving traditional roofing, including repairing rainwater goods*
- assessment, condition reporting and repair of traditional structures

Unwin's Stores
History: 77-85 George Street (1843-1846). Believed to be the longest continually occupied row of shops in Sydney and Australia, they played an integral role in the development of Sydney's first commercial area. These five sandstone buildings, originally built as shops and dwellings, were erected by Frederick Wright Unwin between 1843 and 1846. They were constructed during a depression in the Colony's economy, in the decade prior to the discovery of gold, hence their relative austerity. The land on which Unwin's stores stand was originally part of Sydney's first hospital and gardens.

Let's Clean with the Natural Paint Remover "Heritage No1" stripped the building of its old paint without damage to the nearly 180 year old sandstone.

Our 600GL (SoyGel) did the Job

A customer bought the product and was very happy.

Let's Clean - another success.
Why not give us a call and find out more about us?

From The Happy Stripper

Salt reduction & desalination of the masonry

The principle of the captive-head washing system (originally “Gregomatic”, now “BlueVac Low-Pressure Captive-Head Washing”) is a combination of a targeted water whirl, which produces a rinse action, together with a simultaneous vacuum action to remove dissolved or loose residue from the substrate. The system can also be used to rinse off bacteria (mould), low & high pH detergents, oils, fire damage soot and other contaminations from all washable surfaces including fibres (carpets). This patented system awarded Gold Medals at International Inventor’s in Geneva, Basle (Switzerland) and New York (USA).

Manufactured and redesigned in Australia by Let's Clean Pty Ltd

The captive-head washing system has been shown to successfully remove the residue of a “Cocoon” type of desalination poultice without increasing the water load in the substrate.
This raised the question of whether the captive-head washing could also be used for the desalination of the masonry.
To answer this question, test samples have been conducted.

A. On a dry surface (without pre-wetting) with captive-head washing; and
B. By pre-wetting the previous day using de-ionised water to mobilise salts, followed by captive-head washing.

Results

Captive-head washing after pre-wetting with de-ionised water (B) produced a significant salt reduction, not just on the surface, but up to a depth of 10cm. There was no movement of salts further into the substrate. The salt reduction was greatest in the first cm, declined with depth. Results obtained with captive-head washing are comparable with those obtained by traditional poulticing procedures. Where the substrate was not pre-wet (A) the salt reduction was less significant.

When using captive-head washing purely for its cleaning/rinsing action (to remove the residue of chemicals or other contamination), the moisture content of the substrate has not risen, which means the negative pressure (i.e. vacuum) of the wash head is greater than the capillary effect of the substrate.

Other Test Patches have been conducted on Natural Stone and Render type of surface for Sulphate content. Core samples were taken of up to 10cm in depth, before and after captive head washing.

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Technical Application

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